Valerie Gillies


You want to be there to catch the wave
       living breathing surf till it sounds in your dreams

You want to get where it peaks, energy beneath the board
      rolls in the line-up of breakers and just keeps going

You want to be on the wave face at the plummeting lip
      if you fall off a big one youíre going to get eaten up

aaayyye... see ya out there, aye

you know itís going to be good with an offshore wind
      perfect waves peeling all the way along the reef

you feel the force of everything that made that wave
      the winds across the sea and the pulse of storms

youíre in there timing sets of three, assessing rips
      pulling into a barrel, thatís where the power is

aaayyye... always thinkiní, always lookiní

to be inside a wave, thereís nothing like it
      to get that deep, not getting touched at all

the foam is chasing you along as it breaks behind
      you ride it to the end, then you go and get another one

to be there when wind, tide, swell all happen at once
      as the first seas and oceans beat inside you

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